Sooooo, from what I read on other seamstresses blogs I’m not the only one struggling to take pictures. To be honest when it’s between some sewing time and some picture taking time, sewing wins every time… But I managed to make an effort. I praised so much the Lekala patterns that you deserve to see what they look like. So as I said in my previous post, I started with Lekala 4285. It’s a nice pencil skirt with some shaping and pleats at the back. The fabric is a stretch cotton pique from Mood. If I remember properly it was from Theory. It has quite a lot of stretch so it’s actually perfect for a pencil skirt to make the walk easy. I made one alteration that is going to sound major but it’s actually kind of my fault. Between the stretch of the fabric and me being scared of not having enough ease in the hip area (so I stated a bigger hip measurement that usual when I ordered my pattern), the skirt was really big when I tried it on (before adding the facing). I ended up removing 1/2″on each side (total reduction 2″!!). Other than that, I made no alteration, not even the length!! I used seam binding for all the seams. I’m sort of a seam binder maniac. I only got a serger this year and sometimes I get very upset that I don’t get good results right away. Because of my classes at FIT, I took the habit of binding the raw edges of my muslin samples (yes I like to get As…) so I bind quite fast now… But I promised that I’m improving my use of the serger, I try to use it at least once per project.
I think the skirt will get a lot of wear, mostly at work. Of course, being white, it does suffer from a typical Murphy’s Law. Everytime I wear it, I have a 50% chance to drop something on it (think coffee, blood, anything that will show A LOT) in the first hour that I arrive in the office. It would be way too easy if it happened before I left the house, because I could change and where would be the fun of trying to conceal a stain for the whole day!
If you plan on making of these patterns, don’t rely on the instructions. Google Translate will NOT do a good job translating sewing stuff from russian to any other language. However the technical drawings are quite accurate so they are worth taking a look (or 2, or more…) at.
For the invisible zipper, I used my favorite technique (from Fashion Incubator), I know some people do it differently but I really don’t know why. It works perfectly every time! The adjustments that you need to your pattern are the followings:
- The seam allowances in the zipper area is 1/2″, from the top to 1.5″ lower than the finishing point of the zipper.
- The rest of the back seam is the way you like it (for me it’s 3/8″).
- The facings have 0 seam allowance where they are going to be sewn onto the zipper.
- Once you did this, you can refer to this post for the sewing order (includes pictures for the visual learners). I never even made the pressing jig (I’m too lazy).
So in my configuration, the pattern looks like this :
What’s your favorite zipper insertion method? Have you tried the Fashion-Incubator ones ?
Next time I will show you the little 90’s dress but I also already made a variation from that pattern and I finished the Jedediah shorts (YAY!!) so stay tuned, updates are coming!