The pencil skirt factory

I have been sewing pencil skirts with a bagged lining, using as much resources as I could from the tutorials@Fashion Incubator. I drafted the main skirt, tried it in muslin and then drafted the rest as close as I could to Kathleen’s advice:

the lining is 1″ shorter at the hem but has an extra 1/2″ between the bottom of the zipper and the top of the vent.

The zipper area and the vent of the shell and lining are drafted after the tutorials (the nameless tutorials and the lapped zipper).

The facing is minus 1/8″at the waist seam so that it stays on the inside.

Here is what the pieces look like :

Shell pieces
Lining

Here is some kind of operations order (things in the same number can be done in any order, this is just how I did it the first time when I was taking notes)

0/ Fuse all pieces

1/ Sew side seams of the facings

Prepare front (darts, pockets, etc.) shell and lining

Prepare back shell and lining

2/ Sew shell side seams and lining (without forgetting to leave an opening on one side)

3/ Sew lining to waistband facing

Sew L shape in the middle back of the shell,

4/ Sew zipper to the skirt

Zipper : see the proper zipper tutorial mentionned above. First one was a lapped zipper, on the second I did an invisible one (I’m clearly better at invisible…)

5/ย Attach lining to the zipper

6/ Sew lining to the shell at the waist

7/ Understitch SA to facings

Vent: See the nameless tutorial !! I actually printed it out and have it in an binder in my sewing space.

Sew point to point on the lining

Sew the cut out part of the shell stopping 3/8โ€™โ€™ before the end

Sew the lining to shell at the hem

Sew the lining up the vent

Turn inside out through side seam

Topstich vent

Close lining side seam.

It looks long but it’s really not !! I’ll add later the pictures of the 3 skirts I made so far !

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4 thoughts on “The pencil skirt factory

  1. Janet

    That’s it – you’ve inspired me to have a go at pattern drafting. I’ve been sewing for many years, I’ve read loads about drafting but never really given it a go. And I need skirts that fit properly, so I’m ordering some drafting paper right now! Thanks for the link to the tutorials ๐Ÿ™‚

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